Down to The Dead Sea

After leaving Petra the afternoon of November 13, 2017, surrounded by desert and passing through a few small towns and ruins, Bob and I drove east toward the southern shore of the Dead Sea and then followed the shoreline north until we reached our destination.  We passed through one fertile nature reserve that seemed to be a misplaced oasis along our route.

The drive was quite interesting as we traversed the Abarim mountain range that runs east and southeast from the Dead Sea to the desert in the south and includes Mt. Nebo (which we will review later).  There were some view points which slightly resembled a very barren Grand Canyon.

 

 As we neared the Dead Sea, we began to see patches of green, and then I feel like I was back in Utah, driving through fertile farmlands and small communities between Utah Lake and the Rocky Mountains.

 However, the green quickly faded away and we were back to sand dunes and barren rock.

The Dead Sea, one of the world's most salty bodies of water, is bordered by Jordan on the east and Israel and Palestine on the west.  It is fed by the Jordan River and has no water outlets.  It's shores lie 1,412 ft below sea level, which is earth's lowest elevation on land.  We reached it's north shore at dusk, where we enjoyed dinner and a relaxing evening at the posh Dead Sea Marriott Resort.  Don't worry, no "hubbly bubbly" for us!

The next morning, we walked down to see and enjoy the Dead Sea. Although we had limited visibility, the blue water and white mineral coated red rocks created a beautiful shoreline.  Giving in to "the thing to do", we covered ourselves in the thick black oily Dead Sea mud and gave it 30 minutes to work it's skin softening magic.  Then, carefully, we traversed the rocky shoreline and washed in the medicinal mineral rich water. It's high mineral content transforms swimming into a "floating" experience and the density of the water literally makes it hard to remain in an upright position when emerged.

Good times!  Now to get cleaned up and drive to the Baptismal Site of Jesus Christ.

Two Perfect Days in Petra!

Petra was just a short distance from Shobak and we were anxious to get there the afternoon of November 12, 2017.  Anticipation escalated as we entered the city of Petra.  From the city, we could see the rugged terrain which concealed the hidden ruins.  While we had most of the day ahead of us for exploring, we were glad to have purchased a two-day entrance on our Jordan pass, and spend a night at Petra Moon Hotel which was just across the street from the entrance to the site.

Here's a little history about Petra:  Between 400 B.C. and 106 A.D., the "rose-city" was thriving as a trading center and the capital of the Nabateans empire. They had developed transport and irrigation so ahead of their time that we still see it today.  The city, which once claimed over 20,000 inhabitants, was half built and half carved into beautiful rose-colored stone.  A breath-taking spectrum of colors reveals itself in the rising and setting of the sun.  The decay of Petra started as the Byzantine rule grew stronger, and earthquakes around the year 400 and again around 550 had devastating affects upon the city and its water systems.  It seems the Roman Empire folded the Nabatean page in the history books for good, around A.D. 700.  Petra was "discovered" in 1812 by a Swiss explorer and the site was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985, and made famous by "Indiana Jones" in 1989.  Only 15% of the city has been discovered and they rest lies underground.  In the early 2000's it was named one of the "New Seven Wonders of the World".

Now, let's get started!  A short walk inside the gate began to reveal hints of what was to come.

We began to descend into the Siq, which is a narrow gorge about 3/4 of a mile in length (the result of earthquakes), which leads to the Treasury.  It is an impressive scenic walk between walls which tower 600 feet in height and which narrow to 3 feet in width in some places.  Along the ancient cobblestone path, carved into the rock are religious figures, irrigation ditches and evidences of dams.  Horse driven carriages often cart tourists back and forth the length of the Siq.

We rounded every corner with anticipation of seeing that famous peek between the crevice - the Treasury.  And then suddenly, there it is!

 Wow!  Each time we saw it, the Treasury was the same impressive site, robed in colors that changed with the position of the sun!

Although the interior of the treasury is just an empty cave-like room, the exterior details are stunning.  And did you know that the treasury extends another story or more under ground?

There are hiking trails that roam all over Petra, but we only had time to do a few of them.  Our goal the first day was to make it to the Monastery and see everything we could along the way.  A non-stop walk to the Monastery, from beginning to end is said to take about two hours with a steep climb up something like 900 steps.  Some people opt to ride camels (poor things!) instead of hike. We proceeded along the path from the Treasury to the Street of Facades.  To be honest, from here on, we were so overwhelmed with the beauty of Petra, that we didn't stop to figure out what it was we were seeing.

 The ruins of the Main Theater were easily recognizable.

 Camels, donkeys, and souvenir vendors could be spotted throughout Petra. 

 The insanely intense red, orange and pink hues of some of the rock were unbelievable!  A little similar to the parks of southern Utah, although entirely different in form.

 The remains of the Great Temple Complex were awe-inspiring.

 Our stroll through Petra was now transitioning to a "hike" as we began our climb to the Monastery.  

 

 Bob and I were right at home scrambling over boulders with the mountain goats, but not quite as comfortable with the Israeli fighter planes circling overhead! 

Although the Monastery is not as detailed as the Treasury, it is equally impressive!  I love that it was constructed on the top of the "mountain", and requires a concerted climb to get there.  By way of contrast, it seems to make sense that the Treasury would be located down in the valley.  Religious places elevate us from the "world" and provide quiet sanctuaries of worship. Going to temples in my own life, likewise, requires an upward effort and a sacred commitment and consecration of time; but the spiritual solitude and renewal within the "mountains of the Lord" is a reward beyond measure.

 

The backside of this mountain top provided a breath-taking view across the desert horizon. I wanted to linger in that beautiful place, but nightfall was not far distant.

The descent provided some new vast perspectives of Petra, including a more expansive view of the Temple Complex.

 

 Across from the Great Temple, we stopped to see some excavation being done on another smaller temple.  Intricate mosaic tile designs were exposed within the columned walls.

 

 

 Then we crossed a bridge in pursuit of the Royal Tombs.  They were a magnificent sight to behold!  Notice, again, the strikingly beautiful marbled stone.

Reaching the Treasury and feeling somewhat exhausted, like the camels pictured, we considered for a moment requesting a donkey ride up the Siq.  Instead, we bid farewell to Petra for the day and trudged onward toward the "Cave Bar" just outside of Petra, where we found refreshment, food and a lovely night view of the city.  Supposedly, the "tavern" is one of the oldest bar sites in the world.

 

Petra is really a place you could explore for weeks and still not want to leave.  Bob and I had just the following morning to take in a few more of it's intriguing sights.  Our goal this day, November 13, 2017, was to hike to the High Place of Sacrifice.  Down the Siq, toward the Theater, and to the left our trail began.

From across the peak where we had ascended, a couple of obelisks appear to designate the sacrificial site.

  

 Upon our arrival atop the High Place of Sacrifice, we see water collection pools and a sacrificial altar carved into the stone.

 

 But more amazing was the view looking down on the main street of Petra from above where we stood.  We came to Petra and conquered!

 By the time we returned to the valley, our time was running short.  We chose to revisit the Royal Tombs in a little more depth.

 A final look at souvenirs and trinkets nearly completed our visit to Petra.  I purchased mine later, and soon you'll know why I chose a camel charm!

Bob and I just couldn't depart from Petra without exiting in true Arabian style.  What a unique experience we had sitting atop two tall camels who "ran" us up the path from the tombs and back to the Siq.  When a camel rises or sits, it's front legs are in a bent position, and that means the rider nearly glides right down a very slippery slide onto the camel's head!

 

 Ma’a al salamah, Petra!