Wednesday, November 17, 2021

Historic Boyne Valley

Our reason for staying in Drogheda, near the Boyne Valley, was because we had tickets to visit Bru na Boinne, a Neolithic necropolis consisting of many different sites. I know I repeat myself when I state that this was another historical place I was excited to see in Ireland. I've not yet seen the pyramids of Egypt, but with this site pre-dating the pyramids, I am completely enraptured with the historical significance of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Situated within a bend in the River Boyne. Brú na Bóinne is famous for the spectacular prehistoric passage tombs of Knowth, Newgrange and Dowth which were built circa 3200 BC. These ceremonial structures are among the most important Neolithic sites in the world and contain the largest collection of megalithic art in Western Europe. In order to see these tombs, a booked tour was required, and it does not include visiting Dowth. Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, entrance into the Tombs was not allowed.

We visited Knowth first, a place that was reminscient of the burial tombs we loved in Korea. . It consists of a large mound and 17 smaller satellite tombs. The mound is about 40-feet high and 220-feet in diameter. Over 200 decorated stones were excavated here. Many of the motifs are spirals, diamonds and serpentiform. Crescent shapes, and the oldest known illustration of the moon in history is found at Knowth.

Newgrange is the main monument in the Brú na Bóinne complex. It is a passage tomb that pre-dates Stonehenge and the pyramids.  The cruciform passage goes one-third of the way into the mound. It is aligned on the winter solstice sunrise.


The Hill of Slane was our next stop in the Boyne Valley. According to legend, the Hill is where, in the year 433, St. Patrick, in defiance of the Pagan King (at the Hill of Tara about a mile away), lit the first fire on the spring equinox - a privilege and show of power reserved for the druid King. Upon attack, the King was charmed by St. Patrick and his white robed priests, and though he did not convert to Christianity, he allowed Patrick and his followers to remain and establish their religion in the area. The ruins of a Franciscan Monastery, dating from 1512, are seen on the Hill of Slane, and include a statue of St. Patrick.


Not far from Slane is the site of the Old Millifont Abbey. Mellifont Abbey was the first Cistercian monastery in Ireland, created in 1142. The most extraordinary architectural feature is the two-story octagonal lavabo - the place where the monks would wash before eating or performing other functions. It later became a private residence and then was used as headquarters for William of Orange during the Battle of the Boyne.  Orange was the Protestant King who overthrew the Roman Catholic King James II, a significant event for Protestants in Ireland. As we were leaving the ruins, a couple arrived planning to take wedding photos - admittedly, a perfect setting for such.



With just two days remaining until our flight back home, we drove to Dublin, where we would complete our two-week trip to Ireland.







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